A closer look

Waking up at 3 AM on vacation to watch men silently point at dead fish is oddly mesmerizing. Tokyo’s Toyosu Market replaced the legendary Tsukiji, moving the chaotic pre-dawn tuna auction behind sterile, double-glazed glass viewing galleries. Tourists groggily watch licensed buyers use a rapid-fire, secret sign language to drop millions of dollars on premium bluefin, realizing they will never care about anything as much as these guys care about sushi grades.