A closer look

Just off the sun-drenched shores of Crete lies a fortified Venetian island that masked a heartbreaking 20th-century reality. Until 1957, Spinalonga operated as one of Europe's last active leper colonies, and modern visitors wandering its ruined stone streets often discover that the quarantined residents built a surprisingly vibrant secret society here, complete with their own cinemas, cafes, and underground newspapers.