A closer look

Most floating markets have devolved into traffic jams of selfie-sticks and overpriced souvenirs, but Amphawa remains the real deal. Arrive in the late afternoon, and you will find an armada of small wooden skiffs acting as mobile barbecue pits. The vendors have somehow mastered the art of grilling giant river prawns over hot coals without setting their entire boat on fire. You literally sit on the concrete banks and wait for plates of blazing hot seafood to be handed up to you. It is a gloriously chaotic, highly caloric triumph of aquatic culinary engineering.