A closer look

Mini-Guide: The Midnight Market of the Dead. Deep in Bolivia’s La Paz, every November, vendors at the ‘Feria de las Ñatitas’ lay out skulls adorned with sunglasses and flowers. Each is believed to host a spirit that protects its carrier if offered smoke, liquor, and whispered gratitude. Locals trade blessings for candles or coca leaves, ensuring the skulls remain content—never hungry, never vengeful. Anthropologists trace the custom back to pre-Columbian ancestor cults, yet modern believers blend Catholic prayers with ancient awe. Standing amid incense and murmurs, you realize: not all markets broker goods. Some trade comfort between worlds that overlap for just one night each year.